The Boca appellation encompasses five communes: Boca, Maggiora, Prato Sesia, Cavallirio and Grignasco. The latter is northernmost and closest to the mountains. Here, in a hamlet called Torchio – which literally means “winepress” – Davide Carlone has proudly kept the family’s long winemaking tradition alive with the aid of his sister Michela. According to some, if it had not been for them, winemaking in Boca would have ended altogether.

Davide is acquiring new plots of land, where in former times vineyards were abandoned. He uproots the forest that claimed the land back and plants young vines – a hard chore that only a man with endless passion and energy can undertake.

Davide’s eager nature reflects in his direct, potent and impetuous wines. This makes them extremely enjoyable as of younger age, when others still need to develop. We loved his Boca 2015, which we are sure will overcome its slightly austere aspects with aging, as its strong aromatic base and tannic structure promise. Indeed we tried some vintages – 2012, 2013 and 2014 – and found them more rounded. The generous Croatina struck us with its enviable dark red robe, potent boquet and warm, welcoming body.